What’s up guys I’m Brad Rodriguez from Fix This Build That and today I’m gonna show you how to make a drill press stand with a ton of storage. I’m also gonna show you some tips and tricks on how to install drawer slides and how to space your drawers for easy install Stay tuned, I’ll show you just how I did it I’ve been using this little baby drill, press for about a decade now, and I’ve outgrown its capacity So when I got this new 12 inch drill, press from JET, the sponsor of today’s video I knew it was time to upgrade my drill, press stand as well so I can match the rest of my shop furniture The whole stand is made from one sheet of 3/4 inch plywood just Over a half sheet of quarter-inch plywood and a little solid wood edge banding for the top.
I started breaking down the plywood for the base per my cut list There’s a link down below in the description for the full PDF plans, which include the cut list parts diagram and step-by-step instructions I’m using pocket hole joinery for much of the cabinet which makes for a quick build I drill pocket holes along the edges of the bottom panel to connect it to the sides Next I laid the sides out on the table and I clamped them tightly to the bottom with these jet parallel clamps I secured the pieces together with one and a quarter inch pocket screws for a strong connection Then I went back to the table saw to cut the tops for the cabinet I used the larger half of the full sheet of plywood that I broke down earlier to get these cleats After cutting the small cleats to size I drill pocket holes in each end and then I took them back to the cabinet for install.
I use the clamps again to hold everything tight and position the cleats in place and then I secured them with pocket screws Next I cut a quarter inch plywood back to size to fit the cabinet I checked the cabinet for square and with a little nudge, I got the diagonal measurements the same which means it’s square The back is secured to the drill Press stand with five eighths of an inch screws and this locks everything into square and stops the cabinet from racking. I moved on to the drawers which are the bulk of the work for this build and the drill press Stan has a ton of storage From these five cabinet drawers. I cut the parts to width from a large base drawer on the bottom and four small drawers above it The top drawer is gonna be slightly smaller than the other three and this is gonna count for that front cleat But the false fronts are all gonna be the same size.
You’ll see what I mean later Each strip of plywood that I cut on the table saw gives me one side in a front or back part I set a stop block on my miter saw stand I cut all the sides to the length stacking the parts too high to get one drawer done with each cut then I measured the opening of my drill press cabinet to get the size for the Front’s I made a full video on how to make easy drawers now I have a link above and in the description to it I go into a lot more detail about all the sizing considerations and how to deal with undersized plywood when cutting the drawer fronts After cutting all the parts to size I drill pocket holes in the ends of the fronts and the backs to secure them to the sides Assembly of the drawers is pretty straightforward I use two sides in a front and back with the pocket holes facing outward then I lightly clamp them and adjust it everything square and flush and then tighten down the parallel clamps and secure them all together with one in a quarter inch pocket screws I’ve used blue in the past when doing these drawers, but with the glued on bottom drawer that I’m using I don’t feel like I really need to do that in between the screws and that glue that’s gonna be on the bottom these drawers will be plenty strong for a long time.
I worked my way through all five drawers using the same process and stacking them on the table saw in a shop law that I found to always be true is the last surface that you put something on is the next surface that you’re going to need to use After clearing the saw I cut the bottoms to size from quarter-inch plywood I cut the bottoms to exact size and glued and nailed them on with Brad nails keeping the nails in from the edge by about a half inch and Once I started going I got a little carried away with my brad shooter Now here’s why I shot the nails in from the edge I added a chamfer to the underside of each drawer along the sides And I sized it to the thickness of the bottom panel and this effectively hides the plywood bottom of the drawer when viewed from above Here’s what it looks like before the routing and after pretty cool trick with the drawers done It was time to mount the full extension drawer slides and if you’ve been following me for any amount of time you know that I do this a lot.
A few things that I’ve found to be helpful through all my different installs are using consistent spacing wherever possible For this design I worked it out that I can use just one sized plywood spacer all the way up the side After I installed a drawer slide the spacer goes on top of it To install the next one and I just used a spring clamp to hold that spacer in place and it works like a champ I installed all five sets of slides working my way up one side and then up the other until they were all in place Can stall the bottom drawer I used a quarter-inch sheet of plywood scrap to prop it up off the bottom Then I pull the drawer and drawer slides out and attach the slides with screws in two places on each side After that, I pulled the drawer out and put one more screw in the back of each slide to hold it securely in place now for all the following drawers I used spacers Which I cut from the leftover plywood just rinse and repeat with each drawer and then you’re done The false drawer fronts are cut from one continuous piece of plywood I cut each drawer front to size with the top four all being the same height Before attaching the drawer fronts.
I sealed them in the cabinet with a water-based polyurethane I left the drawers unfinished on the inside since they’re just shop drawers To attach the false fronts. I drilled mounting holes in the front of each drawer then starting at the bottom I used an eighth of an inch spacer as a guide and I stacked the drawer front on top of it. I clamped it in place, and then I secured the drawer front with panhead screws from the inside. I follow the same steps working my way up the cabinet and I just stack the eighth inch spacer on the drawer below it Line it up on the sides with the cabinet clamp it in place and secure it with the screws You can mount the drawer hardware a lot of different ways I like using a jig that I can clamp to the drawer front starting with that top drawer I drilled the holes.
Then I screwed the handles in place with the included hardware I quickly worked my way down and the base was almost done To finish off the base. I took the drawers out then I flipped the cabinet over on its top on the floor I’m using 3-inch double locking casters here and I attached them at the corners the last piece of the drill press stand is the top I Cut a piece of 3/4 inch plywood down to the width that I wanted But I left it about 2 inches long and the edge banding for the top is gonna be from birch hardwood That’s one of the quarter inches wide for a double thick look I glued and screwed the strip’s to each side of the top clamping both the edging and the top firmly to the workbench I also made sure the screws were well within my final here The reason I left the trim in the top piece long So I could cut them to size on the table saw and everything would be flush with no fuss It’s just one less measurement to worry about when trying to edge band a plywood top After cutting the top to length.
I drill more pocket holes on each opening at the top You can also use biscuits and dowels here for alignment I just like the speed a pocket hole since you don’t have to wait for the glue to dry before moving on and the ends are attached the same way as the sides with glue and screws on each end to Get a nice smooth seams between the trim and the plywood when your edge banding use a pencil to mark lines across the seam all Around the top, then you just sand until the pencil lines are gone And this will make sure that that’s a smooth and even surface at the scene Just make sure you don’t blow through the plywood veneer.
I Added a round over to the edges of the top and then I sealed it with polyurethane before mounting To secure the top I cut a couple mounting strips to attach to the underside And I got a chance to test out my new drill Press that I’ve been talking about earlier and the two things that I’m really excited about this JET drill Press are the added capacity over my old one in the digital readout and variable speed So instead of fooling around with belts You can just turn a lever and adjust the speed on the fly If you want to find out more about this drill Press I’ll have a link down below in the description and thanks again to JET for sponsoring this video.
I Attached the strips to the top and I screwed the top down from underneath using 1-1/4″ screws. I Haven’t taken the time to really trick out the storage yet But already I know this is gonna be so much better with smaller drawers here The top drawer is gonna be my most used twist and Brad point bit and the second drawer is going to be my fort snore And other specialty bits and this leaves three more drawers four clamps, hold downs vices and whatever else I can think of If you want to see some more shot projects I’ve got a whole playlist right there of all my shop project videos great organization and storage methods You can go check them out.
If you want plans for this build. There’s a link down below in the description You can go check it out if you’re not subscribed to the channel already I’d love to have you as part of the team and until next time guys get out there and build something awesome .
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